Sillustani, Peru June 13, 1979
We went back to Puno for a day before heading to Bolivia. Hit the market and bought too many things that I’ll now have to carry… . And went to see the nearby Sillustani ruins. These were very dramatically located on the top of a hill overlooking a beautiful and very still Lake Amayo, with a truncated volcano island in it. And a backdrop, on all sides, of distant, yet distanceless, mountains. It felt like a very powerful place.
The ruins themselves were a series of stone ‘silos’, which served as funerary towers, and urns. They were both rounded and rectangular, some as high as 12 metres. Some were made in the stone-cut-and-carefully-fit-together Incan style, but most were built in the more rustic cobblestone wall style, glued together, once upon a time, with mud adobe. Apparently some had at one time been faced with white-painted adobe, but most of this has weathered away, leaving just the odd patch. Alongside one of the urns three badly weathered figures stood sentry. Another urn had a lizard carved high up on its ‘face’.
In the taxi back to Puno we craned our necks to watch a spectacular sunset. The red, orange and pink rays of the dying sunlight grew more and more intense until, as we neared Puno, the sky was almost blood red. And so good-bye to Peru.
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